aerial view of city buildings

Dear Nury, let me tell you about this side of K-Town

This article was originally published on October 20th, 2022 for our Making a Neighborhood Newsletter. Please consider becoming a paid subscriber today to get more stories like it, plus work from our colleagues Samanta Helou Hernandez and Ali Rachel Pearl.

Diana Mabel Cruz and her mom in Koreatown, or Little Bangladesh, in 2018. Photo by JIMBO TIMES.

Because it bears repeating: Los Angeles was founded 241 years ago by red, Black, and brown hands, among others, or by a cast of characters who some might call “short, dark people.” You can head over to 8th street and Irolo in Koreatown for a blast from this past as a new wave of fervent colors do their part to feed, lift, and maintain the concrete jungle’s lifespan for another day, and soon enough, for 242 years.

Perpendicular to 8th and Irolo, or at a right angle at Wilshire Blvd and Catalina St., “K-Town” also holds the former grounds of the Ambassador Hotel, where Senator Robert F. Kennedy–the Democratic candidate for president in 1968–was shot and killed, taking with him some thirteen years of a dream for the Civil Rights era. The RFK Community Schools now on those grounds enroll over 4,000 students; aged five to eighteen within a nine block radius, these students hail from homes where they speak not only English and Spanish–the principal languages of the current Los Angeles–but also Arabic, Bengali, Burmese, Tagalog, Indonesian, Korean, Urdu, and Zapotec, among others! In 2021, RFK high schools graduated at least 89% of this dynamic student body. RFK would be proud.

Perpendicular line from G-Maps by J.T., who admittedly failed 8th grade Algebra and wasn’t quite Beethoven at Geometry in 9th grade, either.

Once upon a time, yours truly attended school in Ktown, too, making friends with youth from Black, Korean and Central-American localities for how they exuded the resiliency of The City in every step of their stride; and little did I know then that I was actually part of this chunk of The City representing no less than the future of Los Angeles and even the nation; but my ffriends and I did have some intuition of how the area harbored a past not yet past as people there persevered through a blockade on their representation at City Hall in effect for decades (Until 2022, the Koreatown neighborhood was divided to fall into three different City Council member offices, making it especially difficult for communities there to receive sufficient and coordinated resources from City Hall).

Tlacolulokos (Mexico, Dario Canul b. 1986 & Cosijoesa Cernas, b. 1992) – Smile now, Cry later, 2017.

But of course, I don’t have to tell you how Ktown isn’t an easy pie to slice given its geography as the “dead center” of Los Angeles, connecting places like East Hollywood to the Crenshaw Corridor, MacArthur Park and downtown, not to mention Mid-City, West Adams, and South Los Angeles. And in case you’ve never seen these connections via the Metro’s 204 and 754 bus lines starting at Vermont avenue and Santa Monica Blvd, you’re missing out big time.

Should you want to see about the very latest in Ktown times, though, I suggest you follow Mellyyt_, a Oaxacan-American’s “Wildest Dream” who documents family and young professional living for L.A.’s born and bred along the renowned Pico-Union area. Melly’s stories uplift her neighborhood’s artistry and street-smarts in no ambivalent terms; undoubtedly, she’s keenly aware that she and her community aren’t simply standing atop gold in real estate terms from Ktown to Pico-Union, but reflecting gold like the kaleidoscope of hands in motion at 8th street and Irolo.

The next time I pick up another cup of fresh tejate there, then, or some chicken mole at Pico Blvd and Van Ness, I’ll think of you, Nury; of how you flew too close to the sun for yourself but still cast a beam into our neighborhood for the whole world to see its radiance; of how your words, rather than dividing Los Angeles, a city most people first met through televised smoke and ashes for its halls of power, brought us closer together for another inflection point, one more firmly rooted than the last; of how thousands of young people in Ktown are ready in the wings to lead our city onto better days as soon as they get to fly, too, a showing like only L.A. can give. Tan bell@s.

J.T.

This article is also dedicated to Daniel Morales Leon, otherwise known as Chapulín, or GeeHop213, a major poet and ambassador for the Oaxacan-American community in L.A.. Daniel passed away unexpectedly this summer, but something tells this writer he’s now surely waging a rhyme attack for the soul of City Hall from the other side. Thank you, Daniel.

EPISODE 107 – HELEN H. KIM ON KOREATOWN AS OAXACAN-KOREAN + GIVING TUESDAY

Yours truly sits down with Helen H. Kim (@theotherhelenkim) to discuss our vision for K-Town Is OK and how donor support on #GivingTuesday can make all the difference. We reflect on Helen’s family life in Koreatown, going on to learn that her dad–like my mom–worked at a sowing factory in downtown Los Angeles during her youth. We also discuss the catalyst for our shirts: the racist L.A. City Council recordings published by the L.A. Times just this past October; other notes include the shirt’s design process, design accessibility for immigrant communities in L.A., local community shop Virgil/Normal’s support, and our privileged position to facilitate each of these processes. To donate to K-Town Is OK, please do so HERE. 100% of donations go towards commissioning more interviews for the project, a new website, and miscellaneous expenses like ink, paper, and other items in the effort to reach Los Angeles.

J.T.

Get your haircut with the future of Santa Monica Blvd

This article is being published concurrently with the latest for the Making a Neighborhood Newsletter. Please consider becoming a paid subscriber today to get more stories like it, plus work from our colleagues Samanta Helou Hernandez and Ali Rachel Pearl.

I’ve noted before that Santa Monica boulevard in East Hollywood is special to yours truly for a few reasons, including because alongside Vermont avenue it forms the nexus where my mom first opened her newsstand more than 20 years ago.

Virgil avenue and Santa Monica boulevard is also where many of my old friends and I fed ourselves after school, when a few dollars at the 7-eleven there went a long way to sustain our teenage diets of junk food and syrup.

At 4591 Santa Monica Blvd one also finds the Cahuenga Public Library. Admittedly, during my teens I wasn’t always there for the books, but I would still pick up my first copy of Alex Haley’s The Autobiography of Malcolm X at the branch; now, a copy of Making Our Neighborhood: Redlining, Gentrification and Housing also adorns Cahuenga’s shelves for a new generation of readers.

Most recently, the 14.4 mile-long stretch of L.A. asphalt originating from the west side at Ocean Avenue has made its way into my routine yet again–or I’ve made my way onto it–as near the intersection of Santa Monica boulevard and Edgemont street yet another side of East Hollywood has “taken me in.”

First opened in 2019, Barbershop Lopez is the host and mainstay of at least five barbers from in and around the neighborhood; a few steps down memory lane with one of them, however, Oscar Lopez himself, reveals the shop’s history on the block goes quite a ways farther back. 

A millennial who grew up in Silver Lake during the 1990s, Oscar first learned to cut hair from his mentor in 2011 while working at a shelter in downtown L.A.’s Skid Row area. He earned his barber’s license in 2015, and three years later, began leasing a small shop with his colleague Mike the Barber at 4561 Santa Monica boulevard. 

That shop was–you guessed it–just a couple steps away from Cahuenga public library, and on hearing Oscar tell it, I recount to him how I’d walk past his and Mike’s humble setup countless times and glance in to see perhaps one or two customers at a time.

“But we made it work for three!” he replies with gusto.

Oscar Lopez and Rik Martino, also colloquially known around the neighborhood as “Bird-Man,” in 2018. Photo provided by Lopez.

Shortly after starting up near Madison avenue, however, the building’s owners informed Oscar that there were plans to install some apartment units either adjacent to or on top of the shop soon. Since the lease was monthly, he and Mike knew it was time to find another location. Time and fate were on their side. 

A sudden and massive fire in early 2015 at the 4800 block of Santa Monica Blvd and Edgemont street led the owners of the strip there to do some remodeling. In only two years, they transformed a retro style Psychic Reader’s studio into the spacious setup that would become Barber Shop Lopez. Another hair salon would precede Oscar and Mike, however, and when their search revealed that relocating to Hollywood itself was too expensive, they reached a limbo. But in early 2019, the salon left, literally opening the doors for their duo.

4854 Santa Monica Blvd in 2014. Photo provided by Google.
4854A Santa Monica Blvd in 2022. Photo provided by Google.

Oscar and Mike gladly set up shop on the newly renovated strip in April 2019. Yet favorable timing and fate weren’t without some irony. After all, less than a year before their new setup farther west on Santa Monica Blvd came the pandemic.

“It wasn’t easy,” Mike recounted to me en Español during a last-minute appointment I made with him at the shop.

“Pero no nos quedó más que seguir trabajando.”

They kept working, taking their clients’ appointments outside their apartments when they could–with masks on, of course–and right outside on the boulevard itself when necessary. It also helped that the shop’s owners were supportive of their team’s tenacity.

Pandemic or not, the shop went on. Photo provided by Lopez.

“They took care of us,” Oscar noted to me over the phone.

The owners’ good will during the pandemic, coupled with the shop’s steady rise in popularity, led Oscar and Mike to sign a new five-year lease for the space recently. As the last five years for areas as close as Virgil avenue saw seismic shifts for business, foot traffic and clientele, then, Barbershop Lopez persisted. Now, their success is another pushing against the trend for many a local.

Walking into the shop recently, the scent of shaving cream filled the air. On greeting Erick, who’s taken care of my fade and trim roughly every three weeks over the last year (except on Tuesdays), I take my seat on the comfy barber chair in front of him, feeling instant reprieve from the traffic-like-clockwork outside. Above me, an assortment of classic and cult-favorite personalities meets my eyes, from a portrait of “Iron” Mike Tyson lording over his opponent, to small frames of hip hop legends like 2Pac, Pharrell, and more. Most of the art was gifted to Oscar and Mike by their friends.

Oscar Lopez, in business professionally since 2015. Photo provided by Lopez.

Shortly after Erick casts a robe over my neck for the thirty minute session, more personalities walk in, including moms and pops sliding into the waiting seats on behalf of their mijos and mijas, as well as more recently arrived folks from out of state whose lingo distinguishes them.

But speaking with the Lopez team reveals it’s not lost on any of them how their dynamic clientele is indicative of a larger shake-up in Los Angeles over so many seasons. It’s just that they’ve been some of those who’ve found a way to work right through the middle of it all, probably attributable to their razor-sharp barber’s eyes.

“This is our neighborhood, and it’s true that it’s changing, but we do still have locals here,” Oscar notes to me matter-of-factly.

“That’s why I wanted to come back and open up a business right here.”

Barbershop Lopez is open 7 days a week from 9 AM – 7 PM, and I personally get my haircut with Erick for $45. “Kids” get a $10 discount with Erick for fades, tapers, and scissor cuts, and word on the street is that Oscar’s a pretty damn good barber himself, though there’s just one way to find out. You can also follow the shop via their Ig: @barbershoplopez90029.

J.T.